Lokrum Island, an Oasis for the Soul

There are places in this world where nature and history work hand in hand to transport you back in time so that you can become fully present. Lokrum island is one of those places.

As you approach the town on the meandering road from the airport, the first sight of Dubrovnik is not its whitewashed old town but the mystical and monumental island of Lokrum. Like a deep-green crest of trees on a fringe of jagged rocks, it looks like a forest surfacing from the sea, a promise of pure nature and true idyll.

What parks are to big cities—an easy escape from the urban jungle into the serenity of nature—Lokrum is to Dubrovnik. When the ferry from the old port pulls into the tiny port of Portoč, lines of passengers disembark, making their way to the island. Moments later, the crowds dissolve, and you start feeling like you have it all to yourself.

Poised in the heart of the island is the pretty Benedictine monastery. As soon as you step foot into its Renaissance cloister, the past comes alive; you can almost see its first residents, mysterious Benedictine monks, going about their daily business, whispering to their chin ora et labora (‘work and pray,’ the motto of the order). The Benedictine abbey was founded here in 1023, and as it grew stronger, the monastery expanded. The laborious monks resided on the island full-time for centuries, tending to the land, growing fruits and vegetables, olives, and vines, and being largely self-sufficient.

In 1667, the Great Earthquake struck Dubrovnik, leaving the city, and Lokrum alike, devastated and weakened in many ways. A century later, in order to boost the city’s treasury, it was decided to sell the island. Pope Pius VI approved the closing of the monastery, and the last monks, sad and disappointed, left.

There is a legend attached to this event, the legend of the cursed island, now often told to entertain visitors and scare off kids from camping here. It says that before leaving, the monks circled around the island for three days and nights, holding candles upside down and dripping wax along the way, uttering a curse against anyone who purchased the island for their private pleasure. The only way to reverse the curse? Collecting all the drops of wax from the shores.

You can learn more about the Benedictines and their way of life in an exhibit staged on the ground floor of the eastern wing. On the upper floor, another exhibition pays homage to the island’s recent history. In the iconic Game of Thrones, Lokrum stood in for the rich merchant’s city of Qarth, so it is a must-see for enthusiastic fans, who come to pose on a replica of the Iron Throne that is a part of the exhibit.

As you move away from the Benedictine monastery, the rest of the island’s history unfolds. Head up the steep Paradise trail to the island’s highest peak, like Game of Thrones Daenerys did in quest for the Tower of the Undying, and you will come upon a sturdy, round fortress. Shortly after the monks had left, Dubrovnik fell in the arms of Napoleon’s army; unimpressed by the city’s defenses, the French quickly started the construction of multiple hilltop forts, including this one. The name Fort Royal reminds us of their short presence, but the fort was actually completed by another power, the Austro-Hungarian Empire, who took Dubrovnik over from the French.

During an almost century-long Austrian administration, Lokrum caught the eye of Habsburg archduke Maximilian I. He visited Dubrovnik after a military ship wrecked by Lokrum; still today, a massive cross on the island’s north shore commemorates the boat Triton and lives lost in the shipwreck.

Maximilian fell in love with Lokrum, purchased it, and kept returning. A love nest for him and his wife, Charlotte, the island still holds many traces of their presence. Charlotte’s well, where she enjoyed early morning baths, sits hidden in the forest, and the manicured gardens by the monastery ooze Viennese charm.

Not long after discovering Lokrum, Maximilian got summoned to become the Emperor of Mexico, where he was killed. This story is often used to corroborate the legend of the curse. The truth is, though, that when you come to Lokrum, it doesn’t feel cursed; on the contrary, it feels heavenly. The soundtrack of nature plays the whooshing of the wind in holm oaks and pines, the chirping of crickets, the waves crashing against mighty rocks, and the occasional screeching of free-roaming peacocks; it’s as if you stepped into nature’s symphony that plays to the tune of your soul.

For many locals and visitors alike, a day at Lokrum means ultimate relaxation. Lushly covered in forests, it is ideal for long walks; you can hike, circle around the whole island, or stroll along the many forested pathways. Swimming opportunities abound, from the open waters at Portoč and many rocky spots to the naturist beach on the island’s east and the lake-like Dead Sea, which is perfect for families with small kids. While picnics are the locals’ favorite, there are also restaurants and bars. Wherever you go, and whatever you do, the serenity of Lokrum promises to soothe the soul and revitalize the body. Like a true oasis.